Destinations

Samoa holiday

In the midst of Samoa’s capital city, Apia, stands a clock that once stopped and wasn’t repaired for 20 years, so the local legend goes. It’s a fitting tale for the one large city in this laid-back tropical nation, because who needs time when you have so much relaxing to do?

It is hard not to start feeling tranquil the moment you arrive in Samoa – the tiny airport with simple screens separating baggage collection and customs doesn’t have the bustling feel that big centres do, and so long as there’s air conditioning in the car, the drive away from the runway is the start of holiday time.

It’s late afternoon when we arrive and the drive across the island to our resort is a great introduction to Samoan lifestyle, architecture and geography. Each village, announced by a small sign, is made up of houses painted in a riot of colours, along with open-sided fale in which children play or adults sleep.

of course, the people of these islands have been through a lot since the devastating tsunami in September 2009, but the reconstruction of resorts such as Sinalei Reef Resort & Spa – where we settle into our rooms and enjoy a dinner of fresh seafood and local produce on a wharf – have helped the country bounce back.

The next day, it’s back into the van to see some of the sights of Samoa, the first of which is a spectacular cliff-side waterfall, Papapapaitai Falls, that is barely signposted. From such natural beauty, we continue on to a cultural landmark – the homestead of famous author Robert Louis Stevenson, a grand old home set in stunning grounds in Vailima, just outside of Apia.

The writer of classics including Treasure Island and the Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and or Hyde, was buried near his home, which has been converted into a museum.

We drive around the ring road that circumnavigates the island, stopping at white-sand beaches and marvelling at magnificent churches that are a feature of every village. At a roadside stall, we buy the perfect thirst-quencher – an ice-cold coconut full of fresh green coconut juice that we suck through straws to cool down.

Simple but delicious, the experience makes you feel like a local.

Travelling the island, the impact of the destructive tsunami becomes obvious as we reach Lalomanu Beach, one of the worst-affected areas, where debris still litters the sides of the road, beached boats lie abandoned and the foundations of many homes still sit empty.

Ex-pat Kiwi Steve, who works at Taufua Beach Fales, says the rebuild is nearly complete here, but there are rooms being built further up hill behind the stunning beach just in case another wave should ever hit.

We make the most of a local secret on our return to Sinalei. After refreshments at the restaurant, we leap into the crystal-clear ocean from the wharf where a natural fresh-water spring creates a cold pool in the midst of the warm sea, producing a kind of hot-and-cold bath.

The next day, we travel on a huge ferry to sister island Savai’i, an hour’s sail across the bright blue waters. This island is just as charming as the more commercial Upolu, with a huge fresh produce market supplying some exotic treats and plenty of tropical fruit.

But it’s midday and we’re hot, so we continue down the road, veering off into a grass paddock where we pay a small fee to some men at the entrance to a rough driveway, then rumble our way up to a totally private, secluded and breathtaking waterfall and pool.

This divine spot is a perfect example of the surprises lurking in Samoa everywhere – as we swim, dive and explore with not a soul around, fresh water falling on us from above, and only the forest for company, it’s easy to see why people here believe they are living in paradise. It’s because they are.

Fact file:

Getting there:

Air New Zealand operates flights to Samoa’s Faleolo International Airport daily. Prices start from about $900 return. Domestic flights are also available within the islands, but an easy and picturesque way to get from Upolu to Savaii is by ferry.

Where to stay:

Sinalei Reef Resort & Spa offers resort-style accommodation with a stunning pool, spa facilities, sea views, and a restaurant. Ask your travel agent for details on room rates or visit www.sinalei.com

More info:

If you’re not staying at one of Samoa’s many gorgeous resorts, consider renting a car to see more of the island and have the freedom to see the amazing sights at your own pace. For more info on visiting Samoa, visit www.samoa.travelfor expert advice from the Samoan Tourism Authority.

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