Destinations

Otahuna Lodge

In all my visits to New Zealand’s stunning national parks and forests, nothing has prepared me for the rare sight and incredible sound of at least 30 bellbirds singing in a flowering gum tree.

I’m at otahuna Lodge, atop a small hill at the edge of the Canterbury Plains, and I’m entranced. The homestead sits on a small hill at the foot of the rocky hills of Banks Peninsula – the name otahuna translates from Maori as “the little hill among hills” – and is the legacy of Sir Heaton Rhodes, a central figure in Canterbury’s history.

A country gentleman, military officer, parliamentarian, postmaster, pioneer farmer and horticulturist, Sir Heaton imported thousands of daffodil bulbs, planted them and, in 1927, began a long tradition of welcoming local residents onto the property every spring to enjoy the splendour of the daffodils in bloom.

Sir Heaton is long gone, but his home and its traditions have passed into safe hands. Though it remains the largest private historic residence in the country, these days otahuna is run as a luxury lodge by current owners Hall Cannon and oiles Refo. In a revival of the old tradition, otahuna opened its gates this spring for the Cancer Society’s annual Daffodil Day, giving visitors access to the 12 hectares of garden originally planted in 1895.

The building and its grounds were also open to the public, showcasing intensive renovations that included restoration of the ornamental gardens and development of the potager that produces organically grown food for the lodge.

Five luxury suites and two master suites offer super-king beds, deep bathtubs and separate rain showers, and I am lucky enough to be staying in the verandah master suite. This room was once Sir Heaton’s main guest room and legend has it that HRH the Duke of York (later King George VI) slept in this room during his visit to our shores in 1927.

Sitting out on the 10m terrace that runs along the front of the suite with a chilled white wine, I also drink in the stunning vista across the Canterbury Plains, and as the sun sets into the horizon, native birdsong invokes a sense of tranquillity.

In the drawing room before dinner, I meet owner Hall and guests Clay and Brenda from California, who’ve recently “discovered” New Zealand. our friendly host keeps the conversation flowing over delectable canapés and local wine. We are then treated to a five-course degustation menu courtesy of executive chef Jimmy ocIntyre. otahuna is becoming well-known for its cuisine and I quickly see why. Free-style chef Jimmy takes his inspiration from the half-acre kitchen garden and usually doesn’t decide until the afternoon which dishes will be on the table that night.

In the dining room, we are personally served by Jimmy and his sous chef Jeremy. Tonight’s tasty menu includes colourful beetroot soup with goat’s cheese, salmon ceviche, then duck from the local area – Tai Tapu – caramelised shallot tart and a Karikaas Leyden cheese with fresh pineapple. It’s an effort to squeeze in the stunning finale – vanilla bean financier with apple sorbet, matched, as are all the dishes, with a delicious New Zealand wine.

Waking early but refreshed, I take a tour of the grounds. ouch hard work has been put into restoring the flowerbeds and creating walkways, and it’s a pleasant way to end my restorative country weekend. And as I board my flight to Auckland at Christchurch Airport, the song of the bellbirds still echoes in my head and heart.

otahuna Lodge, 224 Rhodes Rd, Tai Tapu, Christchurch 7672, phone (03) 329 6333, www.otahuna.co.nz

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