Destinations

It’s a Niue sensation

You're sure to fall for Niue, the small but perfectly formed "rock" of Polynesia.
Niue

Stepping off the plane in Niue, I was greeted with a warm “Fakaalofa lahi atu” and an even warmer blanket of heat, but I definitely wasn’t complaining. In the heart of Polynesia, a mere three-and-a-half hour flight from Auckland, I had arrived on what the locals call “Plane Day” and it felt like the whole island had come to the airport to welcome us with beautiful singing and big smiles.

Every year, I holiday at a beach three-and-a-half hours’ drive from Auckland and it’s hard to believe that for the same time investment, you can be transported to one of the smallest countries on earth. Niue is known by locals as “The Rock” as it’s the largest raised coral atoll in the world – it’s an untouched paradise with the most fluorescent blue waters imaginable.

At the four-star Scenic Matavai Resort, which recently had a $7 million refurbishment, we were greeted with fragrant leis and drinking coconuts. After heading to the pool, a group gathered by the bar soon pointed out a pod of more than 30 dolphins frolicking in the sea in front of us. It was another amazing welcome to the island!

Relaxation is compulsory in the beautiful paradise of Niue.

As most of the island steeply rises between 20 to 30 metres almost straight out of the ocean, don’t expect sandy beaches. But there are coves, caves and chasms, including the Matapa Chasm, which was once used exclusively for bathing by the royal families of Niue, and the coral shelf where the cliffs meet the sea provides plenty of opportunities for swimming. Amazingly, Niue – along with New Zealand – is one of the few places in the world where you can swim with whales.

An absolute highlight of my visit was meeting Anjalee, the playful, friendly eight-year-old elephant who was under a 90-day quarantine before heading to Auckland Zoo to keep New Zealand’s other elephant, Burma, company. I was lucky enough to gather coconuts with Sila Mokalei, who collects them to feed the elephant. Watching Anjalee standing on the browse (coconut trunk), crushing coconuts to extract the flesh, was fascinating.

In Niue, the crime rate is virtually zilch. There is a jail but no-one resides there, and the loudest noise you are likely to hear is the crashing of the waves on the reef. However, when driving around the island after dark, you have to watch out for the huge unga (coconut) crabs that come out on the road and are drawn to car headlights. These land crabs can grow up to 4kg and will climb the coconut palm trees to snip themselves a fresh coconut to break open and eat. If you’re lucky or brave enough, local Bev Mokalei takes nightly unga hunts and this island delicacy is a must-try.

The pool area of the Scenic Matavai Resort.

Relaxation is compulsory in Niue and nobody seems to be in a hurry – at first, I had to remind myself to slow down. But after four days, I had adjusted well to island time and almost forgot what date it was until my holiday was nearly over.

My last adventure was a snorkelling dive and another major highlight of the trip. Peering deep down through the clear water was amazing – so many vibrant fish and gorgeous colours of coral. I conquered my fear of sea snakes and am proud to say I even touched a couple of them!

By the time I left the island, I was leaving new friends. I’m already planning to return for whale season, which is generally from around July to October. It’s when the humpback whales return to Niue’s waters to calve and nurse their young and it’s bound to be spectacular.

Matapa Chasm, where fresh water and the warm Pacific Ocean converge. Pretend you’re Niuean royalty and take a dip!

Insider’s guide to… Niue

Getting there: Air New Zealand currently operates two services per week from Auckland. From November 12 to March 31, there is only one weekly Saturday service.

Where to eat: Willie Sanitelli Washaway Cafe in Avatele Bay, where you help yourself to the honesty bar! It’s the only eatery open on Sunday night.

Best Drink: The most delicious banana smoothie I’ve ever tasted – complete with Niuean honey – made by John at the Matavai Resort pool bar.

Best tours: Toamana Tours with the lovely Hima Douglas and his wife Patricia. Also, Avatele Village Tours led by Kuso Pavihi – I learnt so much history and he also put on a lovely afternoon tea for us.

Money Tip: Niue uses New Zealand currency and has a Kiwibank in the main village of Alofi. Locals mostly speak English, as well as Niuean.

Best water experience: A snorkelling trip with Buccaneer Adventures Niue Dive.

Amalia Osbourne

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