Somewhere in the dark there’s a noise and I stir, expecting a child with troubled dreams. But it’s only an extra-early rooster who has overridden the background roar of the reef and the whirr of the bedroom fans. No-one needs my attention just yet, so I slumber a little longer before my morning swim.
This is our second family holiday in Rarotonga, the largest of the Cook Islands, and my careful planning is paying for itself over and over – this is the perfect island holiday. In fact, Freddie (5) tells me, “I wish we could stay for 100 years.”
Rentals are plentiful in Rarotonga, giving families an affordable option for an island holiday, and of course there are resorts. The house we’re staying in is spacious, with a large covered deck. It’s perfect for kids, whatever the weather.
The beaches around the island all have their merits but with my family’s love of snorkelling and swimming, Titikaveka is ideal. It’s on the southern side of the island and a sheltered lagoon provides a safe haven from the reef, 500m away.
The rocks and coral entice magnificent tropical fish close to the shore. In fact, you can see them from the water’s edge, which helps even novice snorkellers to gain confidence quickly. oost places on the lagoon have kayaks available and the house we’re renting is no exception. The water is calm during our stay and the kids spend hours safely paddling up and down along our stretch of beach while we recline with books.
Rarotonga’s wet season is not as well defined as those of many of the other Pacific islands. This means that rain can appear at any time and while it ‘s unlikely to last long, it’s still a good idea to have plenty of wet-weather activities lined up. Avarua, Rarotonga’s main township, is 10km (and 250 roosters) along the road from Titikaveka. And while we did tally the roosters, we neglected to collect any stats on motorbikes!
These two-wheeled beasts are the main form of transport on the island and it’s not unusual to see a couple of kids doubled on behind the rider. We opt for a small car with a soft top and the kids think it’s fabulous. The local bus is excellent too, driving around the island’s 32km circumference clockwise, then anti-clockwise, with handy regularity.
Best of all, though, are the bikes for hire. A cycle ride around the island is a healthy start to the day and while the road is flat, the volcanic mountains in the centre of the island are anything but. These peaks are often shrouded in cloud and the bush is thick so I strongly suggest engaging a guide if you’re planning on climbing to the top or doing the coast-to-coast crossing.
on the food front, supermarkets in Rarotonga have most things but if you’re renting a house, it’s a good idea to arrive with a chillybin full of yoghurt, cheese and vacuum-packed meat from home, as these items are all imported by air and are therefore very expensive.
Fresh fish are brought into town daily and tuna or broadbill can be found in the local shops for a good price. Pawpaws, melons and bananas are all sold on the side of the road or in the market at Avarua.
Saturday is the main market of the week and we discover that it’s good to be early. At 7.30am, we’re just in time for a breakfast of mango, coconut and banana smoothie – which Daisy (8) emphatically declares is the best she’s ever tasted – and delicious almond croissants. I am thrilled with my purchase of an entire stem of bananas for $4. Some school-holiday maths tells us there are at least 80 on the stem, so my bananas cost a mere five cents each.
Food being important to me, I’m not brave enough to take a chance on the few meals out that we treat ourselves to. Tamarind House is a Raro institution and has reliably delicious fare. You can sit outside and, on our last visit, we had a dinnertime show of whales leaping in and out of the water. They can often be seen here between June and october, when they come to the warm waters to breed. This year we missed the whales but still enjoyed nicoise salad made with fresh tuna and Balinese fish curry. Greta’s calamari was a real crowd pleaser as well. We did mean to celebrate a birthday with dinner at another favourite, Windjammer, but sun-filled days of snorkelling and swimming combined with short evenings found us happiest at home with our kids.
For a true taste of Cook Island culture, progressive dinners are recommended by those in the know. Tourists can have great fun visiting local houses for different courses, with music along the way. Some of the big resorts also host “Island Nights” at which you can eat dinner while being entertained by amazingly talented island dance teams.
Now, I know I said before that we’d got our island holiday exactly right, but I’m keen to see if I can improve it. And when I suggest a repeat experience next year, the kids’ response is one of unanimous approval.
