NZ Woman's Weekly

Timeless makeup

Timeless makeup

Make-up artist Rae Morris has worked with stars such as Pink and Miranda Kerr. These are her tips for looking 10 years younger, without Botox or surgery.

Understanding how the face changes as we get older is the key to using make-up to and developing a younger appearance. Our cheeks fall, eyes and the mouth droop, brows protrude, while skin becomes dull and uneven in tone. That’s why the techniques and products we used in our twenties aren’t going to see us through our thirties, forties and beyond. Luckily for us, Rae has simple tricks and tips that will make all the difference.

RAE’S RULES

Don’t follow trends. If it doesn’t make you look 10 years younger, don’t bother with it.

Find an actress who is a similar age and colouring to you and follow her lead. Keep an eye on red carpet appearances by women such as Cate Blanchett, Helen Mirren, Meryl Streep and Julianne Moore.

Steer clear of shimmer in the eye area, as it will accentuate wrinkles and fine lines. Choose a soft matte shadow instead.

Our brow bones begin to stick out as we age, so avoid a pale highlighter on that area.

If you have small, deep-set eyes, putting a dark colour into the socket will make them look even smaller. Instead, use a soft kohl pencil to line the eye and lots of mascara.

Fix droopy eyes by making a straight line beneath the lower lashes with a kohl pencil, rather than following the eye shape. Use a similar technique on the eyelid. Turn your make-up brush upside down and hold it to the upper lashline at the top point of the lid. Take the shadow from that point to the outer corner. This will effectively lift the eye.

Even out your skin tone with foundation. Stay away from pink-toned shades, even if you have a rosy complexion. Having said that, it shouldn’t be too yellow either. A warm-based, well-balanced shade is the key.

Avoid powder, as it can often make skin complexion dull and flat. If your skin is oily, control it with blotting papers instead.

Eyebrows are the most powerful tool to make a woman look younger. Avoid very arched or overplucked brows, as these are ageing. Instead, drop and straighten the brow, lifting it on the end.

The décolletage should be the same shade as your face. This is where powdered mineral make-up is helpful. Just brush on.

Apply blusher high on the cheekbones rather than in the apples of the cheeks, because these have dropped, remember?  Never smile when you apply it, as it creates the appearance of lines around the eyes.

Bronzer can be evil! Brown circles create holes that draw light. Apply a little blush above the contour line of the cheekbones and layer bronzer on top for a natural glow.

Fix droopy lips by not taking lipstick to the very corners. If you have small lips, best avoid bright colours; go with a lighter shade. Highlight the Cupid’s Bow to make them look bigger.

Timeless Makeup (Allen & Unwin, $49.99) is full of step-by-step advice and ideas from the expert artist.

About Nicky Pellegrino

Nicky Pellegrino has been a journalist for over 20 years, both here and in the UK, and is a former editor of New Zealand Woman's Weekly. These days, as well as working on the magazine's beauty pages, she writes popular novels like Recipe For LIfe, The Italian Wedding and The Villa Girls. For more about Nicky check out her website www.nickypellegrino.com

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